I can’t believe it’s been 7 years, but here we are on our second sabbatical year. It’s 2023 and the girls are 8 and 11 and the world has changed, and they have changed. We’re two months in, and we’re settling in.
Farewell Sabbatical Year
It's hard to believe, but our year abroad is over. We return back to Seattle this week and I have a few final thoughts as I pack the last remaining boxes. Needless to say, it's been an incredible year.
Back to filmmaking I spent a lot of time thinking about my career, while simultaneously trying to learn all things pertaining to U.S. politics. I have decided to go back to filmmaking - with the general purpose of participating in social justice issues using the skills I have. My idea is to split my time between making short films and program management contract work (so that I can pay for the filmmaking)! I am really excited and have a few projects already in mind.
We travelled (mostly in Switzerland):
Rheinfelden (day trip)
Aarau (day trip)
Zurich (stopover)
Thun (stopover)
Brissago (3 nights)
Murren (1 night)
Grindelwald (1 night)
St Gallen (stopover)
Appenzel (2 nights)
Eguisheim (day trip)
Lausanne (2 nights)
Gruyere (day trip)
Murten (lunch trip)
Ruschhikon (lunch to visit Georg's uncle)
Amsterdam (katherine)
Amsterdam, Boston (Georg)
Bern (Katherine, Claire, Mom)
Geneva (for Women's March)
La Pont (sledding, 2 nights)
Mt Rigi (day trip with Timo)
Mt Pilatus (day trip with Lukas)
Berlin (3 nights)
Flims (3 nights)
Ebnat-Kappel (2 nights)
Freiburg (March for Science)
Tuscany (5 nights)
Como, Italy (1 night)
Ascona (6 nights)
Horw, peninsula (day trip with Lukas and Katrin)
Weggis (many times!)
Ich Deutsch gelernt: I passed my first official German Level 1 test - which means I can understand and use familiar, everyday expressions and very simple sentences. I can communicate in a simple way if the person I am speaking to speaks slowly and clearly and is willing to speak to me as if I were seven. I'm motivated to continue learning and my goal is to pass another level test by June 2018.
Danke und bis bald meine Freunde! (Thank you and see you soon my friends!)
Our sabbatical is coming to an end
This year I spent most of my time with Claire and Camille and I learned a lot about them.
Claire is confident and creative and slightly mischievous. She loves the older, goofy boys. She is imaginative. She has a sense for spatial design. She loves flowers, drawing, singing and dressing up. She still has a hard time managing her frustrations and this can push my buttons. Ah, but we're working on it.
Camille is a fire cracker. She is cheerful in the mornings, and is happy to compromise "let's do your diaper and then go outside and play." OKAY, she yells! She is silly and fun but also does things that Claire never did - like sing "poopy" songs, write on walls, throw sand at strangers....ugh! She likes to "rest", and "draw" and "play" and loves to chit chat.
Mostly I walked and biked this year. I tried to run a little bit too.
Riehen is surrounded by meadows, forests and vineyards. It's like the small village is being hugged by nature. People love to walk their dogs and I saw many small groups of elderly women walking together - which always made me feel so optimistic! During this year I felt very fortunate to be able to spend so much time outside and snapped a picture whenever I felt that the moment captured my appreciation. I posted some pictures earlier in the year too - though the Modest Mouse listening didn't last. Now just political podcasts.
A few things about parenting in Switzerland
I have two girls, one is four and the other is two. I am married to a Swiss man and for one year we're living in Riehen, the small Swiss town where he grew up. The population is 20,000 and it's an easy bike or bus commute into Basel. Riehen is an affluent town where life is tidy and predictable.
Life is Simple
Kids bike and scoot all year round. They sled and ski in the winter. Families swim at their community pools and play at the neighborhood playground. Grandparents take an active role in helping with their families. I have been told that things haven't changed much over the years here in Riehen.
Even with all this simple goodness, a lot of people are not very friendly toward children. There have been many time's when we've been on the bus and my "extremely cute" child tries to charm her seat neighbor. This mostly fails, and usually the person just looks away.
Schools
It's all about the public school here. Most kids happily attend their neighborhood school, and beginning at age 5, they either walk, bike or scoot on their own. If both parents work, you can sign your child up for extended care that goes until 6pm and it's very inexpensive - though parents must prove that both are working in order to sign up.
Maternity & Paternity
Both full and part-time women are entitled to 14 weeks of maternity leave. Women are paid 80% of their wages during this time. However, as of 2017, there is no law giving fathers the right to any sort of paternity leave.
MANGO
The first word Claire learned to write was her own name.
A few weeks ago, she sounded out BABA and wrote that, very proudly. Next it was, Mama, Papa, Camille....
Yesterday, she announced she could spell MANGO. And did just that.
My favorite places in Switzerland
1. Murren - a traditional mountain village in Bernese Overland. Stay at the Hotel Regina. The picture below shows the view from our balcony. We did a two-hour hike with a two and four year old and everyone was happy. If you have kids, take the train up to the most amazing park in the world.
2. Weggis, near Luzern: This is a very special place for Georg and me. It's where we got married and also where Georg spent many summer weeks as a kid. The area is one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. Take the ferry from Lake Luzern and if it's summertime, and warm - go to the local Lido.
3. Brissago - The picturesque lake town in the district of Locarno in the canton of Ticino. The picture below shows the local Lido. There isn't really else more I need to say.
4. Vitra Design Museum - Just outside Basel, and always inspiring.
A Guide to Basel
I've been living in Basel for eight months now. Here's what I recommend for you.
We always take our visitors first to the Old Town of Basel - where the cobblestone streets are narrow and architecture is extra charming. The walk is filled with small boutiques selling scarves or gloves or trains or shoes. Or buttons. There is something for everyone.
Along the way, we stop at Gilgen for pastries and/or a coffee at the Mitte, which is very child friendly. You know you're in Switzerland when a child-friendly cafe has five Eames chairs for kids to swirl around on.
Start at the top of the Spalenberg (in the Old Town) and work your way down.
You can't miss the Muenster. The view of Kleinbasel (Little Basel) from the Muenster Church is beautiful. There are five bridges in Basel - Die Mittlere Brücke (The Middle Bridge) is the most famous to walk across - though my favorite is the Birsfelden dam (technically not a bridge). All bridges are bike and pedestrian friendly.
It's true that in the summer people spend their time floating down the Rhine. Georg and I did it this past summer and it was awesome. Do it if you can. On the Little Basel side, stop at Pulpo for a beer afterwards. It's also a great spot for kids - it has a room with sweet Swiss toys to play with. Or on the Big Basel side, go to the beer garden - Veranda Pellicano. They have standard hamburger/hot dog faire and grilles for doing your own grilling. Best of all you can sip beer and watch your kids throw rocks into the Rhine nearby.
As everyone knows, restaurants in Switzerland are expensive. But one needs to eat! For a casual and friendly experience, our favorite is Consum. This is a great place at any time really - an early glass of wine, light tapas, or late into the evening shenanigans. Not great for kids.
If you do find yourselves wanting a more fancy dinner out - we've gone to Goldenes Fasse a few times and it's always been delicious and fun. Not a kid place.
A good spot for kids is the MarktHalle - it's an indoor market with plenty of space for kids to run around and even has an indoor slide. The food is good too! Best for evenings or weekend brunches.
For drinks, I would go to Consum (above) and also Cargo Bar. Cargo Bar is on the Rhine, and has a younger crowd than Consum. It's the kind of place I would have spent many long nights in my 20s.
Here are a few spots I like and would highly recommend making your way to:
Hasenburg - very local, Swiss restaurant and bar. Open all the time. Fine for kids but more fun without.
Grimsel- high-end Swiss design store
Spielegge - toy store with classic Swiss toys
Baeckerei Kult - bakery with sammy's!
St Johanns Park & Cafe - cafe at St. Johanns Park
Claire is almost 5
It's quite amazing to watch the development of your child. Drawings transform. Questions get bigger. Play becomes more elaborate. Tiny moments of maturity appear. Lately, Claire is asking for me to confirm her spelling of words. She's building spaceships and blasting off. Her drawings have people in them with hands and mouths. I see that age 5 is just around the corner and I am so grateful that I get to witness this next chapter of her life. She is still very young though. Proof of this is the stream of questions the other night as we lay in bed: "Mom, when I am older will I wear high heels and makeup like you?" "Mom, what animal starts with a letter E? Elephant?"
Parenting is hard work. It is monotonous and relentless. Days are long. Time is rarely your own. But witnessing a child grow and develop is amazing!
Been sick
We have been sick. The girls have each been home sick on various days. Georg was down with a fever. I have had a sinus infection and cough since the end of December. But I do see the light and soon it will be the beginnings of Spring.
Oldies but Goodies
Sometimes it's nice to go back to the treasure chest to dig up old gems. At some point I want to get the films uploaded and viewable online.
The Untyings
A film about religion and exorcisms in Romania.
Gray Days
A film about the fastest growing population in U.S. prisons: the elderly.
Small Town Secrets
A personal film about growing up with closeted gay parents in the 1980’s.
Spotters
A film that asks two plane spotters what they see when they watch planes. Their answer is a meditation on photography and memory.
In Transit
Portrays David Jackson, a young man who lives in an RV Resort in Pacifica, CA, while he recovers from a bone marrow transplant.
Catching Up
When I was 20, living in Budapest during my study abroad - I remember spending the first year feeling like I had a lot to catch up on. My American classmates were more cultured than me and seemed to know about the U.S. in ways that I did not.
These last few months since the election have felt similar. Here I am, living in Switzerland but am catching up on American politics. Here is what I'm reading, watching, and listening to - in no particular order:
- The Axe Files
- The Intercept
- Reuters
- NYTIMES
- Robert Reich
- Rachel Maddow Show
- Byron Stevenson
- Dan Rather
- Van Jones
- Michael Moore
- Reading and acting on the "Indivisible: A Practical Guide for Resisting the Trump Agenda"
- Calling Washington State Senators Patty Murray and Maria Cantwell on a weekly basis
- Following ACLU
- Following SPLU
- Wall of Us
- Watching films like 13th and Hard Earned
- Sister District
- Sleeping Giants
- Activist Shaun King (following on FB)
- Receiving & reading newsletters from my Washington State Senators
- Putting Washington State Senator phone numbers in my contact list - for easy weekly calling.
Dec 30, 2016
With the need to read every political news article there is, plus Esther's 10-day visit, plus the holidays and plus a two-week school vacation for the kids - my weekly rhythm is out of sync and I haven't been able to post as often as I would like. Oh hum. I guess this is not a very big problem in the grand scheme of things.
This early morning I caught a quiet glimpse of the view from the girls' bedroom window.
It is winter.
Esther
Esther and I have been friends for over 20 years. I love that she cares about the natural world and is always learning something new (photography, animation, music, and now permaculture).
I recently asked her how she saw her life to be 20 years from now. She told me this:
I imagine I'll still be pretty healthy. I hope to have more peace of mind. My dream is to be self-sufficient and to be teaching others how to do the same. I know I will need others around me. I am thinking I may live in some community. I am not sure I'll be living where I currently live now. Perhaps. I don't think i'll be that different than how I am now. I imagine I'll essentially be the same person.
Generally I have not stayed in touch with people from high school or college (except for a few). However, I have many friendships from the period just after college when I was living in Budapest.
I love that we have been there for one another for over 20 years, and that we will continue to be friends for the long run.
.
Esther, summer 2016
Esther, summer 1996
Claire. Age 4.5
Several weeks ago, Claire walked past me in the kitchen and said, "Mom I have a meeting now."
She was standing there with her Peppa Pig purse, her swimsuit on over her clothes and my one pair of high heels on.
"In the meeting we're going to talk about how houses are built, how kids are made, the moon and the sun, Mother Earth and garbage."
Post Election Idea
It's been exactly three weeks since the election of Trump. Even though I am far away in Switzerland, the state of the next four years in the U.S. and around the world weighs heavy on my heart and mind.
What has inspired me the most from what I have read and seen, are the videos from Van Jones called The Messy Truth. He listens to Trump supporters and hears what they have to say. In the three, short videos that I watched, he was able to have difficult conversations that move forward, rather than just spin out. Van Jones is charismatic, articulate and a true mediator. With his conversations, he is not aiming for agreement. He's aiming for more constructive disagreement.
I come from Wisconsin. I am friends with a lot of former high school classmates who still live in Wisconsin. I am honestly not sure of their political leanings. If my Wisconsin FB friends post anything it's about celebrating birthdays, enjoying vacations and documenting kids' sports.
I am also friends with many Wisconsinites who left Wisconsin in the late 90s and moved to Seattle. These Wisconsinites are my peers in Seattle, and dear friends. Like me, they most likely keep in touch with their high school classmates. I bet together, with all our friends and family we're looking at hundreds of people connected in a very profound way (that we all grew up together). What might be very interesting is how our lives have turned out? What continues to connect us?
WHAT IF.....
Some Wisconsin peeps, who now live in Seattle - visited some old friends who still live in Wisconsin and chatted?
WHAT IF....
Some Wisconsin peeps, who still live in Wisconsin - visited some old friend who now live in Seattle and chatted?
WHAT IF.....
We kept up the face-to-face conversations for a few years - let's say we each made one trip per year. And then...in between we committed to a few video and email exchanges.
What would come of it?
Stoughton, Wiscosnin
Onwards
Nov 9
Today was one of the worst days. I woke up at 2am and started checking my phone, watching the polls drop minute by minute against Hillary. By 5am I knew that Trump had won. I am profoundly scared for what may happen next. I am scared for the anger and hatred and disdain Americans have for one another. I am scared for people of color, Muslims, immigrants, LGBTQ, women, those with disabilities, those in need, children. And I am terrified for foreign affairs. I am terrified of a global recession. The list of my fears goes on and on.
I have read intelligent insights. I have searched for what my hero's are saying. I am searching for answers and there is no one answer. It is a systemic problem. A long-time coming problem. A severe problem. The internet cannot explain the tragedy this time.
I cried today. Alone and in front of strangers.
I also cared for my children today. They were fed, loved, read to, tickled. I even tried to dance and sing with them. They are ages one and four - too young for political explanations. I tried to keep a loving and happy spirit in our home. Deep down, I feared for the world they are growing up in.
When I was in my early 20s I was not scared. I hitchhiked through Mozambique and Zimbabwe and jumped on moving trains. I lived abroad alone and took risks. Now I want all that courage back. I want to be brave. I want to fight. I keep thinking - I have children to care for. I cannot risk my life. But I can no longer sit back and do nothing - and stand idle as their future, and all of our future, is this uncertain.
4 Months In - Part 2
Summer is long gone, and leaves are falling fast. We arrived on June 30, and today is November 2. It must be some right of passage to miss home, friends and family this much, at this 4-month mark.
Here are the things I really miss:
Of course our family and friends. Missing our people means we also miss dearly family dinners, birthday invitations, boys/girls nights out, chit chats at the office, and cousin connections.
Our wall-to-wall carpet, king sized bed .... well let's just be honest, we miss everything about our Matthews Beach house in Seattle. Including walks to Matthews Beach, our neighbors, the lake, our routines of Javasti, Metro and Saturday morning ballet.
I miss the comfort of knowing what people are talking about - specifically the details around Claire's school and doctor visits.
I miss the San Juans and specifically Whidbey Island where Claire, Felix and my mom have taken several trips to the "gem" store and then afterwards to Double Bluff Beach.
Claire and her cousin Felix - counting gems on the Whidbey Island ferry back to Seattle
4 months in
Visits from:
Cas and Jean
James and Lara
Celeste and Thibault
Esther and Joost
Ben and his wife
Lila and Paolo
Luis and Karin and Margie and Doug
Jay and Cassandra
MOM!! (coming Oct 26)
Pascal and Laura
Visits to:
Rheinfelden (day trip)
Aarau (day trip)
Zurich (stopover)
Thun (stopover)
Brissago (3 nights)
Murren (1 night)
Grindelwald (1 night)
St Gallen (stopover)
Appenzel (2 nights)
Weggis (4 different times)
Eguisheim (day trip)
Collecting ice in Grindelwald